Showing posts with label 09/2015. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 09/2015. Show all posts

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Marrakech part II - The Medina and souk

The Koutoubia mosque was constructed in the 12th century and is one of Marrakech's most famous landmarks. It is located in the Medina (old town) and flanked on two sides by rose gardens which are a popular meeting place for locals at the end of day. An order prohibits any construction in the surrounding area from being higher than palm tree level, and the tall minaret tower from where the muezzin calls for prayers five times a day is visible from eighteen miles away. So whenever you feel you've slightly lost your way, a sighting of the Koutoubia minaret gives you a sense of direction and relief. 



From the mosque it is just a short walk to the central market square (Jeema El-Fnaa), which is filled with indescribable activity... fortune tellers, snake charmers, magicians, fruit vendors and musicians all compete for attention, and if you pause for as much as a second, you find someone attempts to place a monkey on your shoulder or a python around your neck. The square is lined with cafés, and if you go to the roof terrace of the Café de France, you'll have a fabulous view over the square, and you can take in the atmosphere and prepare to merge yourself into it while enjoying a traditional fresh mint tea. At dusk the square is at its busiest... in addition to the already bustling daytime activity, hundreds of food vendors install their stands to entice large crowds with traditional Moroccan street food. To get an impression of the sounds and bustle at dusk click on the Café de la France website here



The square is an ideal place to start exploring the souk (Arab market place). The Marrakech souk is the largest in Morocco,  a huge labyrinth of intricately connected alleyways, streets and squares. Vendors are grouped according to what they sell. There are leather, carpet and silver districts, with other areas dedicated to earthenware, spices and fruit. The small alleyways are protected from the bright sunlight by slatted shades overhead, and you wander the lines of stalls, some of them the size of doll's houses and others as big (and enticing) as Aladdin's caves, in soft dappled light from above. Some spaces are small, so always be prepared to step aside for vendors with wheelbarrows, or donkey carts busily transporting merchandise and supplies back and forth.









Dried Khella flowers, a fabulous natural antiseptic tooth pick









The Café Arabe, a calm oasis in the middle of the souk and a lovely place to eat in the courtyard or have a drink on the rooftop terrace





no shortage of the essential ingredient for mint tea



The spice market (Derb Rahba Lakdima)





After a couple of hours strolling the souk, the chic and serene Nomad Café is a perfect place to catch your breath and calm your senses. You can find it by the spice market, tucked away in a quiet side street. The roof terrace has an amazing view and is a fabulous place to have lunch, offering a selection of Moroccan dishes and fresh salads made from locally grown produce which you can enjoy with a glass of local wine.

another lovely place for a drink or lunch is the 'café des épices' (dark red building on the left)






Birds eye view of the souk from Nomad's terrace



Not far from the Nomad you'll find the tiny 'Souk cherifia' shopping mall, where small labels and independent designers show their collections in the boutiques on the first floor (under the Terrace des épices restaurant, which is another great place in the souk).



La Maison Bahira was my favorite. They have some really lovely cotton and linen homeware and small jewellery items









Marrakech undoubtedly has the cutest street cats





Koutoubia mosque, Avenue Mohammed V, Marrakech

Café de France: Place Jemaa El Fna, Marrakech 2034, Tel: +212 524 442 319 

Spice market: Derb Rahba Lakdima, Médina Marrakech

Nomad: 1, Derb Aarjan, Marrakech Médina, Tel: +212 5 24 38 16 09

Café des Epices: 75 Derb Rahba Lakdima, Médina Marrakech, Tel : +212 524 391 770  www.cafedesepices.net

Café Arabe: 184, rue Mouassine - Médina Marrakech 40 000 +212  524  42 97 28 www.cafearabe.com

Souk Cherifia: D.S.Abdelaziz, Marrakesh, Tel: +212 678-382254

Maison Bahira: www.maisonbahira.com

Terrace des Epices: 15, souk Cherifia. Sidi Abdelaziz. Marrakech Médina
Tel.: + 212 (0) 5 24 37 59 04 www.terrassedesepices.com

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

TRAVELOGUE MARRAKECH - PART ONE

Marrakech is one of the places I always wanted to visit.. the name alone has such romantic and exotic associations. This former imperial city resembles an oasis in the desert. It is located in the foothills of the snowcapped Atlas mountains and surrounded by lemon, orange, olive and palm groves. Its walled medieval part, the Medina, dates back to the Berber empire, and Moorish and Berber influences and culture can be seen throughout. To explore the colorful and bustling labyrinth of the souks and markets, to see the splendour of its palaces and riads, to step back in time in the Medina, to wander in exotic gardens and enjoy the rich spiced local cuisine has always been a dream of mine, and I hope you enjoy the travelogue.


The Jardin Majorelle is one of the most famous gardens in the city, and dates back to the first part of the last century when it was created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle who came to live in Marrakech in 1917. In the beginning the garden consisted only of a small plot of land with poplar trees, but the creation of this extraordinary haven of serenity became his lifelong passion. Over time, he bought adjoining parcels of land and constructed Moorish and Berber style buildings where he lived and painted. Following his divorce in 1956 and his death five years later, the garden fell into disarray. 

In 1966 Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé discovered the still magical place, and when they learned of plans for the garden to be sold and replaced by a hotel, they quickly reacted and became the new owners. Restoring the garden to its former splendor they moved into one of the buildings, renaming it 'Villa Oasis'. Following his death in 2008, YSL's ashes were scattered in Majorelle's rose garden.




Yves Saint Laurent memorial


Majorelle painted the fountains and walls of this garden in an intense shade of blue, a color known  today as 'Majorelle Blue'.


I have a very clear memory of owning an YSL eyeshadow palette in identical colors to the picture below.. it must have been in the early eighties




Palm tree maintenance





When you leave the gardens, you see the '33 MAJORELLE' concept store right across the road. They stock a fabulous selection of traditional Moroccan items with a modern twist, and most of them are hand made by local artisans. The collection ranges from clothing (kaftans, bathrobes, shirts), and household goods (Moroccan tea sets, tableware, glasses, tablecloths), to woman's wear including accessories scarves and jewellery and children's clothing and toys. It's a perfect place to pick up gifts or enjoy a mint tea and a little something in the adjoining café.







Opposite the store is the small but beautiful Héritage Berbère boutique, which is a great place to buy authentic Moroccan perfumes, room scents and candles.  The perfumes are based on natural ingredients from locally grown sources and are created by Marie-Jeanne, who's passion for Morocco lead her to capture the timeless aromas she encountered on her travels throughout the country.



The flacons are decorated with rich colored tassels inspired by the  Marrakech souks. The scent that came back home with me - Carnet du Desert


For lunch, head to the Grand Café de la Poste in the heart of the Gueliz quarter. The restaurant's rich history goes back to the 1920's when Jacques Majorelle was a regular. The decor is reminiscent of Marrakech's colonial past... the wooden blinds, potted palms and old fashioned ceiling fans provide an escape from the heat, and you are seated on bistro or wicker chairs at tables decked with crisp white linen cloths. The cuisine is French with Mediterranean and Moroccan accents.





One of the most beautiful spots for an alfresco dinner is the roof terrace at La Sultana hotel... you have magnificent views of the Atlas mountains and the Koutoubia Mosque's tower, while enjoying traditional Moroccan cuisine under a velvet starry sky.





Jardin Majorelle: Rue Yves Saint Laurent, 40 000 Marrakesh www.jardinmajorelle.com

33 RUE MAJORELLE concept store: 33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakesh 40000, Tel: +212 5243-14195


Héritage Berbère: Villa Dar Sabah, Av. Yacoub El Mansour, 40 000 Marrakech, Tel: +212 5243 08 841 www.heritageberbere.com

Grand Café de la Poste: corner fo Avenue Imam Malik and Boulevard Al Mansour Eddahbi, Tel: +212 5243 33038 www.grandcafedelaposte.com

La Sultana: Rue de La Kasbah, Marrakesh 40000, Tel: +212 5243-88008 www.lasultanahotels.com


Coming next - Marrakech part II (of four)