La Colombe d'Or - Saint-Paul de Vence

For my birthday last month we went to an old favorite, the Colombe d'Or in Saint-Paul de Vence. I was yearning for its peaceful atmosphere and found myself dreaming of a long alfresco lunch on their terrace. We hadn't been there for more than a decade, so I was wondering if it would still be the way I remembered it, and whether it would have retained the laid back atmosphere I loved on previous visits. As soon as we arrived it was clear in an instant that it had.  What a joy.

Some elements of staying at  the Colombe d'Or make you feel as though you're staying at a friend's house, but a friend who has the most amazing modern art collection on the walls. 

The history goes back to the 1920's when farmer Paul Roux opened a café where the locals  could come for drinks and home cooked food, and dancing at the weekends. In the mid-twentieth century, many artists moved to the hills above the Côte d'Azur, and Roux's cafe became one of their favorite spots. Roux had a feeling for art and artists, and cultivated friendships with his clientele, offering those who were struggling, food and accomadation in exchange for paintings and drawings. Over time of course, Roux amassed a stunning art collection consisting of exchanged and commissioned pieces including works by Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Léger, Braque, Mirò and many more. So now famous pieces as well as those of unknown artists, line the walls of the dining rooms and corridors, while sculptures and mosaics frame the terraces and pool area. The tradition is carried on by Roux's son and his wife, who continue to expand the collection while keeping the esprit and soul of the Colombe d'Or intact.

the reception area

Dining under the stars...the walls of the main dining room lined with paintings by some of the 20th Century’s greatest artists...They're hung unostentatiously without labels or placques. The presentation is simple and confident, each painting lit by a single uplight covered with a pretty shell. The juxtaposition of the importance and value of these pieces, together with the casual unpretentiousness in which they are displayed creates a unique and very special atmosphere...it is an inspirational and romantic setting, and a wonderful place to eat your dinner.

The rooms too are furnished in a simple rustic provençal style, and decorated with colored tiles and rugs and, of course, paintings and drawings from the Roux family's collection. Most have small private balconies or terraces, and I loved our romantic little terrace with its beautiful view over Saint-Paul de Vence's town center.

Breakfast in bed is a rare and special treat.. what could be a better on a birthday than to bite into a buttery croissant while opening gifts and reading cards! Alexandra Shulman's Inside Vogue book turned out to be a fascinating insight into the workings of British Vogue's 100th birthday celebrations (plenty of gossip too). A perfect summer read!

the bar..



.. which seems unchanged since Pablo used to come in for a drink

lounging with my book in a new kaftan (a find from across the street the day before, details further down).

a 'golden' Mirò in the dining room



a peek from the street into the courtyard

There are many reasons I love the Colombe d'Or, and having a meal on its secluded and beautiful terrace is definitely one of them. It is the perfect place for a long lunch, and I only wish the picture below would have captured its magic better... it's a haven of tranquility and conviviality, where you can relax and enjoy delicious and simple fresh mediterranean food and local wines, and even find yourself exchanging a word or two with your fellow diners... We met such a lovely group of people!

the house starter (best to be shared).. an hors d'oeuvres platter consisting of at least a dozen small dishes

a Léger mural of the hotel’s namesake, only in red

Getting ready for dinner, wearing a Parures de Samouraïs 90 carré in a basic bias fold 

The golden dove



Let's explore the town!

Saint Paul de Vence is an especially picturesque and charming little village perched high up in the hills above Nice and the Côte d'Azur. It's not surprising that it attracted so many artists to live and work here, and that it has become such a popular place to visit. It is probably a good idea to avoid going during high season, when it does get very busy!

Happy making sidewalks!



every corner you turn is picture perfect

A few years ago, the traditional French parfum house Fragonard was taken over by its heirs. The three sisters brought their passion for colorful and uncomplicated clothing and home decoration into the company, and expanded the fragrance line to include light and summery tunics, kaftans  and robes, along with table ware and table linen, travel kits and a small collection of jewellry. The fabrics of the tunics are lightweight but not transparent, which makes them perfect for the upcoming hot summer months. The long blue kaftan (left below) came home with me, along with a couple of shorter blouses and, of course, some of the beautifully packaged soaps and interior scents.

The fragrances and a selection of the homeware products can be bought online, where you can also find the locations and opening hours of their Parisian and other provençal boutiques.

On Saint-Paul de Vence's main street, the 'Grand Rue' you'll find two shops by the same owner... Saveurs Sucrées specializes in sweets, teas, honeys, biscuits and jams, whereas the other, Saveurs Salées, offers truffles, mustards, terrines, spices, sauces and beautifully made olive wood spoons, bowls and boards. Both places are perfect for picking up little gifts... the produce is regional and artisanal, made by provençal Maison Bremond 1830.

Saveurs Sucrées



French market baskets serve as shopping trolleys



Saveurs Salées

La Colombe d'Or: 1 Place du Général de Gaulle, 06570 Saint-Paul de Vence

Phone: +33 (0)4 93 32 80 02

www.la-colombe-dor.com

Inside Vogue by Alexandra Shulman, available on Amazon: click here

Fragonard Boutique, Chemin Ste Claire, 06570 St-Paul de Vence. Tél : 04 93 58 58 58 
www.fragonard.com

Aux Saveurs Sucrées et Salées, 68 RUE GRANDE - 06570 SAINT-PAUL DE VENCE Phone: +33 (04) 93 24 09 68
www.maison-bremond-1830.com

Saint-Paul de Vence (general): www.saint-pauldevence.com